Restaurant Review: Talula’s Daily/Secret Supper Club

Talula’s Garden is one of those restaurants that is so charming that I want to move in. What can I say, I’m a sucker for twinkly lights, pretty flowers, and pastel colors. I would happily pull up a chair in the garden and keep ordering cheese and cocktails for as long as they would let me stay (which probably wouldn’t be very long. Those of you who have seen me after a cocktail or two know what I mean).

Now, I’m similarly smitten with the new addition to Aimee Olexy/Stephen Starr’s empire, located right next door. By day, the space functions, as market/café called Talula’s Daily where patrons can grab a cup of coffee and a pastry or a take-out lunch to eat across the street in Washington Square Park. At night, the lights dim and it transforms into Talula’s Secret Supper Club, serving a five-course, seasonally inspired menu.

With its farmhouse tables and chairs, floor to ceiling shelves filled with gorgeous dishes, and country-inspired décor and linens, the place looks like something out of an Anthropologie catalog. And, that’s because it kind of is. All of the dishes, glassware, and utensils are from the retailer (It was fortunate that I wasn’t carrying a large purse or else some items may have found their way into it).

The food is prepared in open kitchen at the back of the restaurant and seating is limited to about 20 or so. There is a communal table for 8 in the center of the room, where there seemed to be a couple of unrelated groups eating together. I suppose that being thrown together with complete strangers, à la a random dinner party in someone’s home, is part of the charm, but I was glad that Chester and I had our own little table for two. The menu changes monthly. So, unless you make it over there this evening, you will be enjoying something totally different than Chester and I did over the weekend.

Our meal started off on a high note, with Parker House rolls and creamy, salted butter. We don’t use real butter at home, so anytime I get my hands on the good stuff, I tend to overdose on it in a way that is probably impolite. I don’t care, particularly when it melts into a light, feathery roll that has just come out of the oven. Bliss.

Next up were the risotto croquettes with mushrooms. Normally, these are one of my favorite dishes, but I found Talula’s version a bit lacking. They were a little too heavily fried (to the point of being a bit burnt) and the interior lacked the creaminess that is characteristic of risotto. The accompanying balsamic glaze was a nice change from the tomato based sauces that I usually see this appetizer paired with, and a nice complement for the mushrooms.

The asparagus soup was my favorite dish of the night.  A small piece of spiced, poached salmon floated in the middle like a little island, when our server poured the creamy soup into our bowls. The dish was simple–with just a bit of salt, pepper and onion and a dollop of mild crème fraiche to flavor the soup–but captured all of the best flavors of springtime.

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The main course was spring lamb, three ways—a medium rare chop, shredded neck and lamb belly. The latter, rich and fatty, with a smoky flavor, was my favorite of the three preparations. The other two styles were more traditional. In other words, I thought they were tasty, but not entirely memorable.

The cheese board was creatively presented, as deconstructed baked brie. Brie is one of the few cheeses that I don’t like, so this wasn’t my favorite dish. But, it was tolerable when spread on a bit of puffed pastry and topped with sweet strawberry rhubarb compote.

On the other hand, I was thrilled to see carrot cake on the menu! It’s one of my favorite non-chocolate desserts, but I have it so infrequently. The incredibly moist cake had just the right balance of cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg. The highlight of the dish was the tangy cream cheese ice cream (note to self: learn how to recreate this) and garnished with candied pecans. I liked the deconstructed nature of this dish, as well. Letting each element stand alone was a great way to experience to the different flavors.

The price point for dinner is $55 per person, which makes it kind of a bargain when compared to other tasting menu concepts in the area. There is an option to add on a beverage pairing for $35. The fact that the server will top you off your glass if you find it nearly empty during a particular course is a nice touch. Our waitress was very sweet and attentive throughout our meal, even giving me a complimentary glass of Prosecco for putting up with a wobbly table.

The Secret Supper Club is a nice little place for a night out. Overall, I think I enjoyed the food a bit more at Talula’s Garden, but I think most of my complaints are based on my own personal preferences.  The May menu looks delicious, so check it out and let me know how it is!

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